a secret food paradise series 5 – delicacies on the silk road

We traveled with a Malaysian backpacker from Lahic to Sheki and was finally able to get some money from an ATM. We had a big lunch at a cafe close to a mosque and tried a few more delicious local dishes.


Figure 1: vegetable pancake on the way to Sheki

The bus that took us to Sheki was supposed to drive further to Zaqatala, so we decided to follow the bus all the way to the final destination. On the next day we hiked on an amazing trail to the mountain top, but we underestimated the distance and was left with no water or food. By the time we came down, our lips were torched and we were totally dehydrated. Once we got off at the bazaar, Toni bought a watermelon and our greedy glances must have touched the owner’s friend because he cut open his watermelon and offered us two slices. We finished them in the blink of an eye and he had to offer us the rest of the watermelon. To show our appreciation Toni also bought two honeydews, and we carried three melons back to our hotel to continue our feast. Hardly did we finish half of them before our stomach became extremely bloated.

Due to our irregular eating pattern and stress and careless consumption of wild fruits, both of us felt extremely uncomfortable. But when we arrived at Sheki, we managed to convince ourselves that we needed something to boost our energy. So we walked into a restaurant and let the waiter decide what to serve us.


Figure 2: “we needed to eat something”


Figure 3: the food came in the clay cup


Figure 4: what it looked like in the clay cup


Figure 5: when we poured the soup out…

The soup was cooked with a huge chunk of fat along with some lean meat and chickpeas. It was an instant energy booster and made us feel that life was good again. But we had a turbulent night as we made countless toilet trips and suffered from the worst sulfur burps. Of course we didn’t blame it on the delicious soup which would stay untainted in our memory.


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